I loved my recent trip to Belfast, and if you have a few days to spare, there are many more great places to visit in Northern Ireland.
One of my favourite days was when I took the train from Belfast Grand Central Station to Londonderry, or just Derry if you prefer.
The much-travelled presenter and author Michael Palin spoke glowingly about how much he enjoyed this trip, so it came highly recommended.
The trains run hourly during the day, and the line heads north to Coleraine before heading west along the coast to Derry. Try to sit on the right side of the train for the best views of the stunning scenery, including the river estuary wetlands, empty beaches, and coastal wildlife.
The journey takes just over two hours to reach Derry. The simplest and most cost-effective ticket for me was to buy a Translink iLink (Zone 4) card; this cost £20. This gave me unlimited public transport usage for the day.
Derry looks idyllic as you approach the train station. Situated on the west bank of the River Foyle, the town rises the hill, connected to the station by the futuristic-looking Peace Bridge.
On crossing the bridge, you will see the brick building of the Guildhall. This is a great place to look around and get a sense of the town, with its interactive exhibitions, tourist information, cafe and other amenities. The architecture is ornate; the stained-glass windows are particularly impressive.
The city walls circle the centre, which you can climb via steps. You can join a walking tour for a few quid to learn about its history, or just take a stroll to enjoy the scenery. The walls date back to the early 1600s and were built by the British to defend the Protestant settlers from the Irish Catholics.
Reminders of the Troubles are evident on the streets, including several murals and, most notably, the Bloody Sunday memorial. Although not all the murals are political, some show a softer side, celebrating popular culture representing the city. Fans of the cult Channel 4 TV comedy series will recognise the faces of the Derry Girls below,
and readers of a certain vintage may spot the face of a youthful-looking Feargal Sharkey in the mural depicting this iconic band…
This place has a unique charm, and amongst the historical buildings you will find modern indoor shopping centres, with restaurants and parking that somehow blend in and don’t spoil its overall character.
On the way back to Belfast, I took a detour. I got off the train at Coleraine and took the connection to Portrush, located on a peninsula on the north coast. This small town has plenty of character and is popular with tourists in the summer.
I took the walking route from the train station along the western beach and around the headland to the other side. To say the wind was bracing would be a huge understatement, but the walk was nevertheless very enjoyable, and viewing the rugged scenery certainly made it worth the effort. I visited in October, so the town itself was generally quiet with few tourists, and the beaches were largely empty, apart from a few dog walkers and one or two hardy fishermen.
The Arcadia building was an unexpected find, perched just above the rough sea. A beach cafe downstairs and an art gallery upstairs. You can even get married here, and just imagine the spectacular wedding photos!
It was shortly after this moment that I felt sufficiently windswept and searched for somewhere to get a warm drink, and then on to make my way back to Coleraine station and Belfast. A day well spent!
What makes Belfast a great city break?
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